Category: Uncategorized

My Recommended Order of Mods:

1. Wheels & Tires* – they totally make the car look cool or not.  Sticky tires are FUN.
2. Good Shocks* – they make a world of difference in ride quality AND handling
3. Lowering Springs* – they don’t actually make it handle better, but the stance is so right!
   • Coilovers?  Coilovers are just springs and shocks.  You don’t honestly need that kind of adjustability for a Street Car.  For a true Race Car – YOU DO.
4. Sway Bars* – Absolutely transform the vehicle’s handling, and do not hurt ride quality
5. Exhaust – Free-flowing for some snarl makes the beast sound ALIVE
   • Headers? If the factory manifolds suck, heck yes.
6. Intake – Make it sound like it could suck low-flying birds out of the air
   • Cold Air?  Absolutely, yes.  That filter needs to be OUT of the engine compartment.

*I pretty much always do #1 – #4 on all my cars.  I used to do ALL of these until I got old and didn’t enjoy the noise.

Notice we haven’t touched the engine yet.

If you’re going into the engine, freshen the engine and…

1. Raise the compression ratio
2. Get a camshaft that makes power where you want to drive it
3. Port the cylinder head

But none of those those engine mods can match BOOST!

These guys have been HUGELY inspirational to me!

Glad to see them on their own!

 

https://www.youtube.com/@kindigitdesignofficial/

Sorry about that.  We’re back up and running.

I lost some stuff that I mostly think I put back.

Let me know what doesn’t work or isn’t there.

Pioneer head unit deck won’t play folders – make sure all your folders and songs are not set to “read only.”

---

Tuning Alpha-N with MegaSquirt-and-Spark-Extra v1.0 and TunerStudio does not datalog TPS ADC – use Notepad to add

entry – tpsADC,    “TPS ADC”,    int,    “%d”

to the mainController.ini file of your Project in the [Datalog] “else” section at the bottom of the file.  You can thank me later.

---

 

What does yours look like?

Completed by a Level 3 Metalwork student

Free Curriculum

Or can you?

During a rebuild, my son’s D17A1 stock cam slipped through my fingers and fell on the floor and instantly broke. There was language:

On the lathe, I threaded the broken end of the “front” half of the cam, drilled through the back two pieces, and counterbored the back of the back of the cam to fit a 9/16″ socket. I also threaded some 3/8″ rod:

Red locktite and some tight like a tiger, and it’s fixed:

No, this will NEVER be pressed back into service, it’s going back in a “dead” engine at work (our original engine when we got the car) that the cherubs work on (I stole its cam for my son’s car).

I guess, in theory, you could weld it once it’s assembled like this….