Pressure Pot Sand Blaster Upgrades

This is new, I’m still creating this page.

Controls

Changed the Deadman Valve to a ball valve.  Makes handling the nozzle SO much easier. Also, since the valve is closed a whole lot less now, the compressor doesn’t “catch up” as often, which actually makes it run cooler (startups draw a huge amount of current, which creates heat in the motor).

Compressor Life

While my compressor is rated at 14.5cfm and 100% duty cycle, the compressor motor would go into thermal protection before too long.  Solutions: 1) Turn the tank pressure down (lower pressure = more cfm), 2) adjust the “spread” between ON and OFF, so the compressor runs to a lower pressure before it turns on again, 3) run the smallest tip you can buy (2.0mm), which will require a finer abrasive (30-60 grit crushed glass is what I use).

Abrasive/Air Tee

Original is fairly restrictive, and when the ball valve fell apart, I replaced the Tee with a 3/8″ NPT copper Tee, with hose barbs.  Much better flow capacity inside.  Will it make a difference?

Third Leg

Original is the thinnest gauge metal on earth, and broke because I would “tamp” the unit to knock the abrasive off the walls inside to blast a little bit longer.  Made from 3/4″ Pipe, and secured with a 10-24 machine screw and nyloc nut.

See picture above.